BEFORE	AFTER

Terracotta tiles give a rustic character to a room, and it looks more authentic against an exposed stone or roughly plastered wall. For a this reason it is often the flooring of choice in the refurbishing of older buildings, or where maintaining an authentic ‘country feel’  is desired. The rich amber tones of a terracotta floor provide a warm and inviting focal point to any room. It is hard wearing, and with proper care and maintenance, will last for many years.

The amount of maintenance depends, firstly, on the type of terracotta floor you have. As mentioned previously,  rough terracotta is very porous. Therefore, each time you wash the floor, the dirt and dust will soak down through the pores and become ingrained in the terracotta. Spills of cooking oil, wine and other liquids will also leave deep stains that may be impossible to remove. Over time your terracotta floor will become dull and dirty looking.

To prevent this from happening it is essential that rough terracotta is sealed.

SEALING -TRADITIONAL METHOD

The traditional method of sealing rough terracotta is to apply several coats of a mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. There are many opinions as to the correct ratio of each but 50:50 seems to be the most widely accepted. The turpentine helps the oil to penetrate deep in to the tile, so the first coat at least should be 50:50. Subsequent coats could have a higher proportion of oil. It is important that each coat is allowed to dry before the next coat is applied. In warm weather several hours might suffice, but in cold and damp weather it would be advisable to leave a full twenty four hours between each coat. Each successive coat will darken the colour of the floor. Eventually, the floor will become saturated with the mixture. You will know the tile is fully saturated when water beads on the surface. Applying further coats will only result in the mixture remaining on the surface where it will act as a magnet for dirt and dust. It is advisable to remove all excess using a cloth and white spirit.

When the sealed floor has had sufficient time to dry, the next stage is to apply a layer of wax. Traditionally, bees wax is used. Apply thin coats of wax one upon the other. Buff each coat before applying the next one. Repeat several times. The result should be a beautiful, natural look to your terracotta floor.

Although the traditional method will achieve the desired look, there are disadvantages to consider. First and foremost is the time involved. This may run to many days and even weeks. During this time it may not be possible to walk on the floor for fear of leaving foot prints, or carrying the linseed/turpentine mixture all over the house. Another thing to bear in mind is that bees wax tends to gather dust and dirt. It also turns yellow over time. Eventually, the floor will become rather unsightly, and the only course of action available will be to strip the floor and repeat the whole process.

For this reason most people opt to use modern synthetic sealers and waxes. These significantly reduce the time and effort involved and when applied as directed achieve similar -and in some cases better – results than the traditional method.

SEALING – MODERN METHOD

Before sealing a terracotta floor, or any natural stone floor for that matter, it is essential to get the surface as clean as possible. If the floor has been down a long time there is likely to be ingrained dirt and stains. There may even be the remnants of previous sealer and wax. The best way to remove these is by applying a chemical stripper to the surface. If it is known what previous sealer was used, it would be a good idea to contact the manufacturer to find out what stripper they would recommend. In most cases the sealer will be water based, and a normal floor stripper from your local hardware or tile shop should do the job. However, if a urethane treatment was applied then something stronger may be required. As this type of chemical stripper can be hazardous to use, it may be advisable to employ a professional floor cleaning company to undertake the work.

The stripper is left on the surface for about thirty minutes to take effect. The floor must be then washed using warm water and a stone detergent. It would help if a scrubbing machine were available. If not, use a scrubbing brush and lots of elbow grease. Use a wet vacuum to suck up the sludge from the floor. Repeat the process a few times and then rinse with clean water. If some marks and stains remain, the application of a 10:1 bleach / water solution to the affected area may help. The end objective is to have clean bare terracotta tiles.

Once the cleaning is completed It is very important t to allow the terracotta to dry out before proceeding to the sealing and finishing stage. Applying sealer to a natural stone floor before it has dried out can result in moisture getting trapped underneath the sealer. This will manifest itself as white blotches on your floor. How long it takes to dry out depends on the ambient temperature, and on the thickness of the tile. In the case of rough terracotta it could take two or three weeks for a floor to dry out completely. So, allow as much time as possible! Rushing things will only create problems down the line.

When the terracotta is dry, remove any remaining dust and grit from on the surface. Then proceed to seal the floor. Usually two or three coats of natural stone sealer are required, but this varies with the porosity of the tile. The drying time for each coat will depend on the ambient temperature and on the brand of sealer used, so read the instructions carefully. It is important to point out that natural sealer does not change the appearance of the stone to any great extent. It may darken the tile, but only slightly. However, ‘colour enhancing sealer’ which highlights the subtle tones of the stone is available in most good tile stores and is worth considering.

Once the floor has been sealed and allowed some time to ‘cure’, it is now time to ‘finish’ the terracotta. This can be done by applying a terracotta wax. These are available in solid or liquid form. They are easy to apply and long lasting. Good quality ones do not ‘yellow’ as is the case with bees wax. They are usually available in matt, satin or gloss finishes.

All things considered, the range of products currently available makes the care and maintenance of terracotta flooring a much easier task than ever before. Your floor may not have that classic ‘antique look’ of the traditional sealing method, but application and maintenance is much easier and any surface protector can be topped up without having to strip everything again.

CLEANING

A terracotta floor that has been waxed or synthetically sealed should be cleaned with a Ph-neutral stone cleaner. Never use off-the-shelf cleaners which contain acid or alkaline as they will strip away the protective wax and sealer and dull the appearance of the floor. Spray the cleaner on to the surface and leave it for 30 seconds then wipe off with a clean damp cloth. Repeat as necessary. When mopping, ensure that all the dirty water is removed from the surface. Use of a wet vacuum is recommended.

GLAZED TERRACOTTA

The major difference between glazed and unglazed terracotta tiles is their appearance and durability. Glazed terracotta tiles are protected and hardened by the coat of vitreous glaze that gives them the shiny finish. On the other hand, unglazed tiles have no protective coating. This leaves the porous tile vulnerable to weathering and wearing. Unglazed terracotta also tends to be a bit more fragile and more easily stained than glazed terracotta. Moreover, unglazed tiles tend to deteriorate quicker in colder climates. However, with glazed tiles one has to be careful because a smooth surface can be slippery when wet. Today, glazed terracotta is much more popular than unglazed. There are literally hundreds of colours and shapes of tile to choose from and ‘anti-slip’ surface finish is becoming the norm.

Glazed terracotta resists moisture and staining to a far higher degree than unglazed. Nevertheless, it is still a good idea to apply a sealer and a finishing product to protect it. There are several manufactures supplying products specifically designed for glazed terracotta so inquire at good tile and hardware stores. Finally, to clean glazed terracotta it is advisable to use a neutral Ph stone cleaner.

THE DO’s & DON’Ts IN THE CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF TERRACOTTA FLOORS

DO’s

• Seal with natural stone sealer at least once every five years. We recommend COTERSEAL
• Apply protective finishing product to protect and enhance appearance of floor. We recommend FOCUS
• Wipe up spills of liquids as quickly as possible to minimize staining and etching of surface.
• Place mats at room entrances to catch dirt and grit
• Place cloth mats under metal ornaments and sharp or heavy objects that might scratch the surface.
• Place castors under the legs of chairs, particularly metal chairs, to prevent scratching.
• Use cleaners that are formulated for natural stone and are Ph Neutral. We recommend EQUALIZER
•  Invest in a wet vacuum cleaner. The wet vacuum will suck up more dirty water after washing the floor than can be removed with an ordinary mop and bucket. Wet vacuums are no more expensive than regular vacuum cleaners but they have the added advantage of being able to suck up both solids and liquids.
• Vacuum regularly to remove dust and grit.

DON’T’s

• Use off-the-shelf supermarket cleaners that are acid or alkaline based
• Use vinegar, bleach, ammonia or heavy duty cleaners.
• Use abrasive items to clean surface, for example scouring powders, steel wool, wire brush, sand paper
• Drag metal objects across floor. Better to lift and place back down. Be careful about dragging vacuum cleaners as the hard wheels on the machine can scratch the surface.
•  Use a lot of water when washing the surface. The water will carry the dirt in to the grout and discolour the joints over time. Better mix water and neutral Ph stone detergent in a bottle and spray the solution on to the surface. Leave for a thirty seconds or so to break down the grease and dirt and then wipe with a wet cloth, rinsing the cloth in clean water as needed. Repeat as necessary.

For further information on cleaning, care and maintenance of terracotta or to request service in this area please call HOUSE OF STONE on 01- 8820002

Slate is composed primarily of the minerals quartz and illite. There are also minor amounts of mica, calcite and other minerals. Red coloured slate contains hematite, green contains chlorite and black and gray slates contain carbon and/or graphite. The reddish tans are the result of iron oxides. Slate can be purchased in various standard tile sizes as well as in random patterns of varying shapes. There are literally hundreds of different colours of slate available.

BEFORE	AFTER

CARE & MAINTENANCE

The actual care and maintenance of slate flooring is not a complicated subject. Most damage to slate floors is done by grit and small stones carried on the soles of shoes. These scratch the surface and can cause pieces of the slate to flake off.

It is advisable to place a good quality mat at entrances for people to wipe their feet before entering the house. Studies have shown that it takes approximately seven steps to remove most loose dirt from one’s shoes. Placing mats both inside and outside will help catch a lot of this and prevent its travel across the floor.

Be careful about using rubber or synthetic backed mats or rugs on slate flooring. They may bleed into the slate and cause a stain that is difficult or impossible to remove. A mat should be at least as wide as the doorway it serves. Clean the mats regularly and beat them to remove all captured grit and stones. Make sure the floor is dry before returning mats to the floor. Likewise, when the mat becomes wet it is better to remove it and dry it out before placing it back on the floor.

CLEANING

All slate flooring needs to be washed and cleaned. How often you will need to damp or wet mop will depend on the amount of foot traffic and the finish on the slate – honed, coated, textured.

The following frequencies are recommended:

– Residential – Once a week
– Light Traffic Commercial – Twice a week
– Heavy Traffic Commercial – Daily

It is advisable to use only mild natural stone cleaners such as EQUALIZER to clean your slate floor. Many supermarket cleaners contain acid and alkaline that may react with minerals in the slate and degrade it over time. Never use scouring pads or abrasive materials to remove stains as they may cause thin layers of the slate to flake off. Also avoid placing metal ornaments and pots directly on the surface as they may leave rust stains. Wipe up all spills as quickly as possible.

These are only guidelines and they should be adjusted to suit specific conditions. For example, in periods of wet weather more dirt will be carried in than during dry conditions so it would be advisable to mop more often.

SLATE FLOOR COATINGS

Slate is quite porous and consequently it easily absorbs dirt and dust. It requires constant cleaning and dusting as described previously to keep it looking good. To reduce the level of effort in maintaining a slate floor it is common practice to apply a protective coating to the surface. There are many different types of coating available. These include natural and synthetic waxes, acrylics, thermoplastics, polyurethanes and epoxy resins. They are either water based or solvent based.

In general water based coatings are appropriate for use in domestic situations and areas of low foot traffic as they are relatively easy to apply and remove.

Solvent based coatings on the other hard are more popular in commercial and industrial premises. They are very hard wearing but they are also difficult to remove and may require specialized chemicals and professional know how to do so.

Coatings are usually available in matt, satin and gloss finishes.

A coating not only provides protection to the surface, it also deepens the shading and subtle colour variation of the slate. It also makes it easier to clean and maintain your floor.

COATING NEWLY LAID FLOORS

In the case of a newly laid slate floor ensure that all dirt and cement residue has been removed before applying the coating. Wash and scrub the surface using a suitable stone detergent and stiff bristle brush. Rinse several times with clean water. If a white film is evident after washing it may be necessary to use a ‘Grout and Cement Haze Remover’. These are available at most good hardware and tile stores. Also investing in a ‘wet vacuum’ to suck up excess water is definitely something worth considering.

Once the floor has been washed and cleaned it must be left to dry out completely. Applying coating to a damp floor results in it drying to a milky white colour. To rectify this will require stripping the coating and starting again. How long it takes the floor to dry depends on how much water has been absorbed by the slate during the cleaning, on the ambient temperature and on the general weather conditions. Under normal circumstances three or four days drying time should be enough for the floor to dry out. If cold and damp weather conditions prevail allow one full week. For this reason it might be advisable to undertake the work during Spring or Summer when the weather is warm.

The coating is best applied to the floor using a foam roller. Usually three or four coats are required. Some manufacturers recommend the application of a natural stone sealer to the slate prior to coating. If this is done then fewer layers of coating will be required. Each coat needs to dry completely before next one is applied. Most coatings are quick drying – typically 30 – 45 minutes. Care must be taken not to walk on the coated area until it is fully dry as foot prints may be left on the surface. Prevent pools of coating from forming in the troughs and grooves of the surface by running the roller across these areas. It is advisable to allow 24 hours for the coating to ‘cure’ before walking on it. Also, when putting back furniture, lift rather than drag each piece in to position.

In the case of a gloss coating the shine can be further enhanced using a soft pad and buffing machine.

Coatings are formulated to be long lasting but they will wear down over time. Grit and tiny pebbles scratch the coating and using harsh cleaning agents will result in the coating taking on a dull hazy appearance. In time the coating will have to be stripped off and a fresh coating put on. To extend the life of your floor coating use only mild stone cleaner such as EQUALIZER and keep dust and grit off the surface by vacuuming regularly.

COATING AN OLDER FLOOR

An older floor is likely to have been sealed and coated at some point in time. It is essential that all these previous treatments are removed before re-coating. Stripper for typical acrylic coatings and waxes can be purchased at hardware stores and tile shops. If it is known what previous treatment was used it would help to contact the manufacturer for advice on the best stripper to use. Apply the stripper solution to the surface and leave for a period of time to dissolve the coating – typically 30 minutes. Agitating with a hard bristle brush or floor scrubber will help remove imbedded flakes of the coating. Once the coating has dissolved to a gel remove it with a mop or wet vacuum. Repeat the process until coating has been totally removed. Wash the surface thoroughly with water to which a small amount of mild stone detergent has been added. Rinse well with clean water. Mop or vacuum up as much as possible. If the stripper fails to dissolve the coating it is likely that the previous coating was not an acrylic water based coating but rather a urethane or epoxy based coating. To remove these coatings a more aggressive solvent based chemical stripper is required. These should only be used with caution as they can burn exposed skin and damage skirting and paint work. It is probably better to employ professional flooring specialists to undertake this work.

Slate has been used as interior and exterior flooring for many years. It adds character and a natural ambiance and is a popular choice of stone with architects and interior designers. It is hard wearing and relatively easy to maintain and with a reasonable degree of care and attention your slate floor will look good for many years to come.

For further information and advice on the care and maintenance of slate flooring please call House of Stone 01 – 8820002

BEFORE	AFTER

Limestone is easily etched by acids, including soft drinks,and it will absorb oil and other liquids more easily than marble. Limestone statues and building surfaces can suffer severe damage due to acid rain in areas of air pollution. Acid-based cleaning chemicals can also etch limestone. It is important to use only Neutral Ph. cleaner such as EQUALIZER to clean your limestone flooring or counter top.

Limestone should be sealed with a penetrating sealer to prevent staining and reduce soiling. We recommend COTERSEAL. However, whilst this type of sealer will prevent deep staining and inhibit dirt build up, it will not prevent etches from acidic substances and scratches caused by grit on the soles of shoes.

For added protection a topical sealer or finishing sealer can be applied. We recommend FOCUS This type of sealer sits on the surface of the limestone and creates a barrier against liquids and grit. Topical sealers are generally available in matt, satin and gloss finishes. Topical sealers are more suitable for honed limestone where they are able to ‘key’ on to the surface. They are not suitable for polished limestone. Applying a topical sealer will reduce the work required in maintaining the floor as dirt and dust sits on the surface and can easily be wiped away with a wet cloth. However, it must be stressed that the sealer itself will dull and wear over time and eventually the floor will need to be stripped and re-sealed. To extend the life of the sealer it is important to keep the floor free of grit and dust and also to use only mild cleaning detergents. Harsh and abrasive cleaners will wear the sealer away in a short time.

Polished limestone floors lose their shine if proper maintenance procedures are not adhered to. Use of acidic cleaning detergents will result in a dull, almost matt, appearance to the floor. Each time the acidic cleaner comes in contact with the calcium it causes a reaction that is effectively eating the top layer of the limestone. The only way to restore the shine will be to grind the surface using purpose made polishing equipment and specialized chemicals and stone waxes. This work should only be carried out by trained stone care and maintenance professionals.

As the old saying goes ‘prevention is better than cure’. This is so true when it comes to looking after limestone floors and counter tops, and indeed for looking after most types of natural stone. Limestone is a relatively soft type of natural stone as measured on ‘The Moh’s Scale of Mineral Hardness’. It can be easily scratched by harder materials such as grit and metal. It is also quite porous and absorbs moisture and liquids which may leave a stain. Composed primarily of calcium it is quitesusceptible to damage from acidic substances such as fruit juices and wine. Even leaving a wine glass overnight on your countertop or floormay result in the appearance of an unsightly circular etch that can be hard to remove.

Nevertheless,in spite of the drawbacks limestone is still extensively used for internal and external flooring and cladding. The subtle neutral tones and colours provide a timeless focal point around which home furnishings can be updated as fashions change. Limestone also has heat conducting properties which many more durable flooring materials do not have. For this reason it is chosen for use with under floor heating systems.

Limestone requires a degree of time and effort to keep it looking well and this should be considered when deciding what areas of the building to install it. It is ideal in a bedroom, living room or bathroom. However its use in a kitchen is not so practical for the reasons outlined above. But even in these areas it can be used so long as proper maintenance procedures are followed. Like all things of style and beauty a certain amount of tender loving care is required and in the case of your costly limestone floor, wall or countertop it is well worth the effort!

WHAT ARE THE DO’s & DON’TsIN CARING FOR ON LIMESTONE FLOORS, WALLS, COUNTERTOPS?
DO’s
DO wipe up spills of liquids as quickly as possible to minimize staining and etching of surface.

DO place mats under hot dishes and cookware.

DO place cloth mats under metal ornaments and sharp or heavy objects that might scratch the surface.

DO place coasters under glasses, especially if they contain alcohol or citrus juices.

DO place castors under the legs of chairs, particularly metal chairs, to prevent scratching.

DO us cleaners that are formulated for natural stone and are Ph Neutral. We recommend EQUALIZER.

DO invest in a wet vacuum cleaner. The wet vacuum will suck up more dirty water after washing the floor than can be removed with an ordinary mop and bucket. Wet vacuums are no more expensive than regular vacuum cleaners but they have the added advantage of being able to suck up both solids and liquids.

DO seal the surface witha penetrating natural stone sealer. We recommend COTERSEAL.

DO apply a topical sealer to honed and rough finish limestone to reduce maintenance. We recommend FOCUS.

DO use a tray for toiletries and cosmetics in the bathroom as these products will cause damage to limestone.

DO vacuum floor regularly to remove dust and grit.

DO place cloth back mats at entrance to catch grit on soles of shoes.

DO refer to HOUSE OF STONE before attempting to resolve any issues on your limestone floor, wall tiles and counter tops.

DON’T’s

DON’T use cleaners that contain acid such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners.

DON’T use vinegar, bleach, ammonia or other general-purpose cleaners.

DON’T use abrasive items to clean surface, for example scouring powders, steel wool, wire brush, sand paper
DON’T drag metal objects across floor. Better to lift and place back down. Be careful about dragging vacuum cleaners as the hard wheels on the machine can scratch the surface.

DON’T use a lot of water when washing the surface. The water will carry the dirt in to the grout and discolour it over time. Better mix water and mild cleaning detergent in a bottle and spray the solution on to the surface. Leave for a minute to break down the grease and dirt and then wipe with a wet cloth, rinsing the cloth in clean water as needed. In the case of polished limestone buffing the floor with a soft dry cloth after it dries completely will help bring up the shine.

For further information on cleaning, care and maintenance of limestone floors and counter tops
Call 01 8820002

Travertine is one of several natural stones that are used for paving patios and garden paths. It is also commonly used for façades, wall cladding, and flooring. The stone is characterised by pitted holes and troughs in its surface. Although these troughs occur naturally, they suggest signs of considerable wear and tear over time. Some installers use grout to fill the holes, whereas others leave them open. It can also be polished to a smooth, shiny finish.

The relative softness of the stone, combined with its holes and troughs, make travertine flooring difficult to finish and maintain. Aggressive grinding sometimes called honing can reveal previously hidden air pockets that significantly change the look of the floor. Also, cleaning with abrasive or acidic chemicals that react with the calcium will over time eat away the surface and reveal the holes.

On account of the air pockets the surface of a travertine floor will have hidden weak points. A sharp impact directly on a weak point will break through the surface and expose the air pocket. High heeled shoes and narrow legged chairs and tables in particular are likely to do damage. Also grit on the soles of shoes will scratch or make holes on the surface.
In spite of the maintenance issues associated with travertine it continues to be a popular choice of flooring in many countries. It has a subtle beauty and character that makes it a favourite of interior designers, architects and home owners everywhere.

Maintaining a travertine floor can be made much easier if the following guidelines are followed:

• Use only neutral ph natural stone detergent for routine cleaning
• Vacuum regular to remove dust and grit from surface
• Place a mat at main entrance to catch grit on the soles of shoes. Better still remove outdoor footwear on entering the house and put on slippers or soft shoes.
• Wipe up spills immediately, particularly acidic liquids such as fruit juice or wine.
• Place castors under chair and table legs.

BEFORE
AFTER

Travertine floors, in common with other types of natural stone flooring, periodically need to be professional cleaned and sealed. How often this is done depends to a greater extent on the level of foot traffic and the actual location of the floor. When this work needs to be done it is better to call in a professional stone cleaning company.

House of Stone offers expert cleaning, sealing and maintenance of travertine, limestone, marble and other types of stone flooring.

To arrange an inspection of your floor and to get a free estimate call us on 01- 8820002

Marble is a medium hardness stone as measured on the ‘Moh’s Scale’ of hardness. It can be scratched relatively easily by grit on the soles of shoes or by sharp edged objects being dragged across the surface. It is also quite porous and will easily absorb spilled liquids that can leave a stain. Also, as marble is a calcium based stone, acidic substances such as wine or vinegar may react and leave an etch mark. Polished marble in particular is sensitive to mistreatment. Care must be taken to maintain the shine. Improper maintenance procedures and the use of unsuitable cleaning agents are the chief causes of polished marble losing its shine. Other environmental factors can also have an impact over time and eventually your beautiful marble floor, fireplace, work top or table may need to be re-polished.

Maintaining marble floors requires some degree of effort but the amount depends on a number of factors. First and foremost is the level of foot traffic. If the floor is in a busy area such as a hallway it is likely that the surface will need regular polishing if the surface is to remain shiny. There are some practical measures that can be taken to limit every day wear and tear. The most effective one is to remove outdoor shoes on entering the home and put on slippers or sandals. This is standard practice in Mediterranean and Arabic countries where marble flooring is commonplace but in more northerly countries, such as Ireland and the United Kingdom this is still more the exception than the rule. If removing shoes is not an option then placing a good quality fine bristle mat at room entrances is the next best thing. This will help catch small stones and grit on the soles of shoes and limit their transfer on to the surface of the marble. It is essential to regularly vacuum up the dust and grit from the mat and also from the marble floor itself.
The second most common cause of dulling and damaging polished marble floors is the use of unsuitable cleaning agents. Most off-the-shelf supermarket cleaners are either acid or alkaline based. These create a chemical reaction with the calcium in the marble. Some of the stronger bathroom cleaners will in fact leave marks and etches than may require the intervention of a marble floor polishing specialist to remove. The simple rule is therefore not to use everyday household cleaners or detergents but rather to buy Neutral ph Natural Stone Cleaner. These are available at most of the larger home ware and DIY centres or from professional stone maintenance companies. They are generally supplied as concentrate for dilution with water. A 10:1 mixture would be typical. Instead of mopping a lot of water on to the floor spray the mixture on to the surface and wipe off with a damp cloth or mop. When the floor is dry, buffing it with a clean cloth or soft pad and machine will help to bring up the shine. Keeping the water to a minimum also helps to keep the grout joints clean.

BEFORE	AFTER

Excess water merely washes dust in to the grout which over time causes discoloration.

As mentioned previously, marble is calcium based. Therefore, even mildly acidic liquids such as wine, vinegar, ketchup, soft drinks and juices can etch the surface. The degree of etching is related to the length of time the liquid remains on the surface. Sometimes just a few minutes contact is enough to do damage. So the rule is to wipe up all spills immediately.

It is recommended that marble is sealed every four or five years with a good quality natural stone sealer. But remember, sealers do not prevent stains and etches from occurring. They only limit the amount of damage that can occur by limiting the penetration of the liquid to the top layer of the marble.

So where should marble be installed as flooring? There is no simple answer to this question. It seems reasonable to suggest that a delicate, porous natural stone is not ideal for a high traffic area or a busy kitchen. Many modern homes are open plan with kitchen, dining areas combined. In these situations extra vigilance is required to avoid the problems mentioned earlier. Nevertheless, in spite of the drawbacks marble still remains one of the most popular choices of natural stone floor. It cannot be surpassed for sheer beauty, elegance and character. Also, when weighing up the advantages and disadvantages of marble one should consider its special heat conducting characteristics. It is cooling in hot weather and yet it retains heat for a long time compared to other types of flooring. For this reason marble is particularly suitable for use with under floor heating systems.

Marble floors add style and class to any interior space. But maintaining them in top condition may occasionally require the service of a specialist stone cleaning company. This may seem like an extra expense but bear in mind that the floor was probably expensive to install in the first place so spending some money to keep it in perfect condition makes good sense. At House of Stone we have many years of experience in the care and maintenance of marble and natural stone. We would be happy to inspect your floor and provide free-of-charge advice and cost estimates to carry out the work.

Call us now on 01-8820002